Great read. Lots of good info

Great read. Lots of good info and it brought a smile when I read about DCC Ready

Glad to share some smiles!

Always full of valuable information

Thanks again for new information on a complex subject. Now I have to reconfigure my memory

to store important stuff so I can find it. 

I noticed also that Bachmann came up quite a bit. I do have a lengthy story I could tell about their DCC 0-4-0T.

Please keep up these fantastic articles.

Bachmann Sound Value!

As for sound, the Bachmann Sound Value line is hard to beat for the money.  It is a Soundtraxx Tsunami decoder but as Bruce stated, "a no frills" decoder.  They have all the same motor control functions as a regular Tsunami but lack in customizable sound.  As for the Bachmann side of the equation, this is not the Bachmann of old times as the RS3 I have is as smooth a runner as my Atlas and Kato diesels without sound!  Then again, getting a locomotive with sound for under $120.00 has it's appeal also!!  Actually can't wait for Bachmann to release the GP9 version with sound!  DCC Ready has had quite a few misconceptions over the years as I have one of those P2K S1 switchers he reffered to in the article and yes, it has an 8 pin socket with a dummy plug but, that's the end of the DCC part of it!  Lights were REALLY bright for about 1/2 second!  Best thing I did was hardwire a Digitrax decoder in it and installed LEDs.  Now it's a really nice running locomotive!  Thanks Bruce for trying to clear up a somewhat muddy subject!

Priceless

Bruce, thank you for your time and talent of dispelling the myths of DCC ready.  Your information is priceless.  You have, obviously, spent many hours investigating in order to come up with valuable solutions.

Obviously, those who originally designed, engineered and produced a great number of items to make our lives easier did not actually attempt installation of the goods for their intended purpose.  Too bad for them.

I do see the definite advantages of DCC technology.  But, am still in the DC era.  My many years of work in electronic, electrical and mechanical service taught me one undeniable fact - "If a person can conceive of an idea, the end result is possible."

I have come up with many solutions with a "what if" attitude that, in most cases, has provided me with the end result.  On the other hand, none of my ideas would make the patent listings because they are so simple as to not boggle the mind.  However,  it is very satisfying to be able to replicate, as close as possible, realism whether it be DCC or self innovation.

Keep up the good work, Bruce.  You may make a DCC believer out of me yet.

G. T.

Work To Your Strengths

I learned basic electronics in high school. My dad also taught me some basic soldering skills. I went on to build several Heath kits including the Hero1 robot. I find that most people are incredibly intimidated by the idea of disassembling a locomotive. For that matter, not having done it yet, I have some hesitation, but I won't let that stop me.

I try to buy DCC Ready locomotives, knowing full well that I will probably have to cut and solder wires, especially to get things like ditch lights. I have three switch engines that will work a large industry on my layout, so I plan to add strobes to the tops of the cabs. I'd also like to add sound. I have no doubt that will mean some fairly major surgery.

It seems to me that columns like this one, help take the mystery out of installing DCC Decoders in locomotives. A person still has to have enough desire to override their hesitation of pulling the locomotive apart, but understanding the basics of how the locos work, and how the decoder gets wired into the circuit, really go a long way toward removing that worry.

There will always be those people who either lack the confidence to pop the shell, or just don't want to bother with it. That's fine, it gives others a nice little cottage business. It really is a shame that there isn't a better standard for what DCC Ready, DCC Compatible, and several other terms really mean. There's nothing worse than expecting one thing, and getting something entirely different.

By the way Bruce, there are work-arounds for your web editing software also. You can always name a page in the editor, then manually rename it before you upload to the server. That way all the pages keep their original names. It's extra work, but it can't be as bad as reworking all the links on the site.

Smiles

Yeah, I was smiling.  I have worked with DCC since the very first NCE system came out.  And I've done at least 20 decoder installations on locos which were certainly not DCC-ready, including several Kato NW2's.  While I am not an electrical genius, the installations worked.  They worked because, prior to DCC, I installed dozens of Dynatrol receivers in command control unready locos.  Anyone who can do Dynatrol receivers can EASILY do DCC decoders in even a DCC-ignorant loco. 

I'm not saying it is easy, but I am saying that DCC decoders are much easier than Dynatrol receivers, largely due to size.

DCC Ready

I always enjoy Bruce's columns.  Even when I think I know a good deal about a subject; I always learn more than I expect from his writing.  For example, I learned a lot about DCC Ready and DCC Ignorant locos which will help me in the future when I get to some really tough ones.

Thanks Bruce, keep up the good work!

No Nonsense

What I like about all of Bruce's articles is that they are to the point, no nonsense. I don't get the feeling of partiality to any one system or manufacturer. I feel like he is a friend writing to me. I also enjoy his videos. Thank you!

DCC installations

I have done many decoder and sound decoder installations. I would like to point out, that matching the lamps to the given decoder can be real tricky. It is one thing to lookup the decoder's lamp voltage specs, but how about the locomotive's lamps specs? I have used this method: I have a power supply that has both volt meter and current meter on it. I will connect the power supply to the loc's lamps, and ramp up the voltage slowly. When the lamps appear to be at full brightness, I read the voltage and current. I then use  these values to calculate  the appropriate resistors to limit the current and voltage to meet the decoder spec. This method also helps if for example you want to use two 1.5 bulbs in series or parallel(two for Fwd, Two for Rev). Remember Ohm's law: I=E/R. R=E/I. E=I/R. Of course, this means having to have a supply of resistors on hand to meet the needs. I do prefer using LEDs, but some decoders suggest that the LEDs may not turn all the way off when commanded. Also, using LEDs you MUST be sure the get the polarity correct, or you will damage the LED. You must also limit the LED's current to 10 to 15 ma. with a series resistor. Make sure that your decoder can handle the current load of your loc's motor. Many older locomotives draw lots of current, and you are best to replace the old motor with a newer can motor, they will draw less current, and probably run much smoother.

DCC Myths

Though not really concerned about DCC at this point in time, the article was full of info that i knew nothing about. Thanks for the heads up!

Thank you all for your comments!

NCE NO HALT INSURANCE DECODER

Bruce have you done a review or gotten you hands on them yet?  Seams like it is not something you add to existing decoder.  IE Sound.

Talked to Matt later says you can add on.  Not available for shipping as of now.  Will be watching.

Haven't seen them yet.