Make modeling more fun
I have found two principles to making modeling more fun. One is to have a system of storage and retrieval that make it easy to pull out a modeling project and work on it, even if you only have ten minutes, or so. The second principle is to figure out how to do as much modeling with the rest of the family, instead of doing it all alone in the basement. These teo principles work hand in hand. Here’s what I do:
1. Standardize your storage. I have a great source of those boxes that Xerox paper comes in. These boxes are a little bigger than 17x11x10 and are generally all the same size. What I do is line the inside with triple-wall corrugated cardboard, to make the boxes stronger, so they can be stacked (and the bottom ones won’t collapse). Or, you can build a wall shelf, with foot-square cubby holes. Each cubby holds one box. My other standard size is made from the lids of these boxes. I trim and reglue thenm, so they are about a foot square. For these, I make “storage towers” out of particle board. These are about 3 feet tall, with shelves spaced 4 inches, and they hold 7 “trays” (lids). Four of these storage towers form the support of a table. Use the large cases for general storage, and the small ones for individual projects. Label the ends of both, so you quickly know what’s in each one.
2. Shop at curby’s. “Curby’s” is every dumpster at the curb - hence the name. Near me is a light industrial complex, where I find crates, plywood, particle board, foam, gator board, triple-wall cardboard and those universal Xerox paper boxes. The crates dismantle into 1x3’s as well as more plywood. All this material will be useful.
3. Make it easy to model with the family. Take a small cardboard tray (Xerox lid) and put all the parts, tools and materials in them. Now you can model with your loved ones in the family room or kitchen. Put a towel on your lap to catch the sawdust.
4. Make your modules out of modules. My club has a standard module size of 2 feet by 5, but a module could be made out of six or eight smaller pieces that drop in. That way you can have smaller pieces that are handy size for working on, while you are sitting with the family. You may want to make a “frame” (out of those scrap 1x3’s from Curby’s) so the edges don’t get frayed and your mini-module drops in and looks neat.
5. Square drive screws can be handy. I find that Phillips screws require a “push” to maintain grip. Square drive screws require far less “push”. When you are sitting in an easy chair, you don’t have the solid workbench to push against. Torx drive works the same as square, and sometimes are easier to get. Either one makes it easier.
6. Battery tools are handy. If you can avoid having to plug everythig in, and avoid the cords snagging on models, paint bottles, etc., so much the better. Ryobi and Makita make a broad range of inexpensive battery tools. Bosch also has a broad assortment of tools, but a bit more expensive (but nice!)
7. Duplicate tools are handy. Keeping extra screwdrivers, files, knives, etc., with the model you are working on saves you from having to get up for every little tool. Harbor Freight is cheap, and even cheaper when they have sales. In your lids and trays, take some foam (Curby’s, again) and make pockets so you can stand the tools on end, keep paint from spilling, and having something you can stick pins in.
8. Paper towels, tape, Q Tips, toothpicks, bandaids and tweezers should be in every active lid. One trick I do is whena household paper towel roll gets down to a quarter inch, or so, I cut it in half, so I have two mini-rolls. I do the same with tape - I take a mostly-used roll of duct tape or masking tape, and pick out the cardboard in the center. Then I “squash” it so I now have a compact oval that takes up less room in the tray.
9. Don’t be afraid to throw something away. Use disposable paintbrushes and other cheap items that you use once and throw away. Make mockups with cardboard, plywood or foam, that you can eventually discard after you have the finished product. Modules usually have ribs, and invariably a rib is where you want a switch machine, signal or uncoupler! Or you need the flat surface of the rib to mount a decoder or other piece of electronics. Make your first set of ribs out of cheap (free) plywood, ,then when you finally figure out where you want them, and what holes you want in them, replace them with good ones.
10. Work with your biology. You will probably need more light, and perhaps one with a magnifier. If you have a tray tower nearby, you can mount a light to it, or to a sturdy (wood) tray that slides in a slot.
Sometimes a seat cushion can reposition your body to a more comfortable modeling position. Or cut a wedge of foam, and custom make a positioner. Get yourself at the right angle. For your feet, sometimes a standard footrest is too high, but a foam or wood one can be the right height.
A small fan can be handy, and you can make one that uses a Ryobi or Makita battery. Too much wind can blow decals and instruction sheets away, so do some experimenting to get a small air speed and volume.
Figure out where to put your coffee, etc. The same foam block that holds your tools can have a circle cut out to act as a cupholder.
If you make a nice looking tray tower, and put woodgrain contact paper and neatly printed labels on the trays, you can probably get away with leaving it in the family room. Make the top of the tower out of a square of nice oak or zebra wood, or something to make it look even nicer.
11. You may want to make a Power module. This is a 12 by 12 by 4 inch "box" with a piece of track and a power source. This is pretty easy for 12 volt dc, a little trickier for DCC, and downright complex fot Märklin! But if you model lighted cars or build locos, it might be worth the effort. Add some foam bumpers so your cars don't roll away.!
There are many more ideas that keep you organized, make it easy to use small scraps of time, and let you model with the family.
