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Reply 0
Ed Eaglehouse Suncat2000

Great ideas

 

David,

Thanks for sharing your experience with us. I'm just getting started and trying to collect the knowledge and materials I need to try my hand at building a module. Information like this is steps beyond where I'm at now and immensely helpful. You've improved my work already with this article.

It's appreciated!

-- Ed

 

 

 

 

Ed Eaglehouse
Reply 0
Norman46

Rather than the plastic caps

Which might pop out of the hole at an inopportune moment, I would suggest a thin piece of aluminum fastened to the rear surface of the frame. An excellent free source of such aluminum is old license plates. If you have several toggles in a row as for a yard throat, one strip of metal could hold them all.
Norman Modeling L&N in HO circa 1953 We don't stop playing with trains because we grow old. We grow old because we stop playing with trains. Webmaster for http://www.locallocomodelrr.org
Reply 0
Prof_Klyzlr

Not a prob...

Dear Norman,

Having used a Speedbor to drill the appropriately sized hole,
mounted the pipe-cap from the rear of the fascia material,
and carpeted the "facing the viewer" surface,
the "animated gate" switch on "Brooklyn : 3AM" shows no signs of un-toward movement,

http://www.carendt.com/scrapbook/page87/onshow1.jpg
/> (the blue control to the right of the young boy is a pipe-cap mounted toggle switch,
with a Blue LED mounted towards the top to aid location in dark exhibition spaces...)

and that's over 5 years of continuous service...

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

 

Reply 0
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