What I have Done

Drunk carpenters...Sanding sticks are worth their weight in gold well more actually since they don't weigh very much. Glue a piece of fine sand paper to a fairly stiff piece of strip wood. You will want various widths.

Paint... I now use the stuff from Hobby Lobby or Michaels

Painting...always before assembly, glue spots are pretty much invisible this way

Glue...Alenes (sp?) tacky glue, and some variation on gorilla glue

Gluing...use tooth picks, and wipe off excess with same, not your finger

Laser kits...all of the above apply, what to watch out for is are the pieces that have glue applied called peel and stick. They stick to your fingers and it really helps to have something to push down on they to get it off of whatever you picked it up with.

Square corners... I have some drafting triangles and some heaver metal L shaped pieces that are a heavy bar on one side and a flat metal strip on the other. Hate brain shorts. Hopefully someone knows what I am trying to describe and can fill in a name. A square, finally came to me while doing something totally unrelated. Get them from Micro Mark. They have different sizes.

Other things that are really helpful are weights of any kind. I have an old 1ft level that weighs at least a pound and a few other strange things that have shown up over the years. It they can't roll it will probably work.

Jack

Comedy

Don't ask.

pqe

EDIT: Confession is good for the soul. And one point of this series is to share my mistakes, no matter how dumb. So, I was brushing the above windows, and saw they would need a second coat. I have impatient moments, so i thought I'd hurry the drying process with the merest flick of my heat gun on low power. (I've done that before with styrene.) Well they were OK for about 10 seconds, as if they were thinking it over. Then they curled up as you see. Don't know what kind of plastic these were (cellulose?), but I'll never do that again. As my penance, I'll scratch build replacements.

pqe

Much Better

Good thing I bought several of those kits. I'll pick up some replacement windows for the next one.

pqe

Widows and doors

Paint them before you cut them out. They will stay flat.

If you plan to add interior details and lighting, spray the inside with a flat light color like white or ivory. Light won't come through if it is sprayed. Hand brushing doesn't work, even using black first. Just doesn't get thick enough.

I use a rattle can from where ever it's cheap.

To prevent curling like your windows, let it dry to the touch and put something heavy on them. I give it 24 hours and most times don't have any trouble with warping.

Jack

Lead Weights

One of the most useful items I have in my modelling tools inventory is a set of aluminium square section tubes filled with lead.  The aluminium is 1" x 1" section cut to lengths of 6" and 1 ft.  Melt up some lead and pour it into the aluminium. The aluminium section is absolutely square so building parts can be taped to it while gluing walls to walls etc.

Gluing jig

I use a magnetic gluing jig with magnets from Micro-Mark part # 60304.  Caution! Micro-Mark can be addictive.

For painting wood models I get latex paint in sample jars and brush it on trim before cutting out and paint the body after assembly but before adding the trim.

Get a cheap set of scrapbooking scissors for creating roofing tiles. It will add visual impact to your buildings.

Prime Time

Here it is in the white. Next I'll hit it with rattle can grey primer.

The main question that has come up as I was building this is about trimming boards that are too long for the place they are supposed to fit. For instance, that roof beam was too long by 1/16". It was the length stated in the plans, but somehow the side assemblies came out that much shorter. (And those pieces were precut!) Anyway, how do you accurately cut it for a snug fit? My instinct is to hold it in place and mark the spot to cut with the blade of my knife (pencil mark is way too thick). The alternative is to measure it with a steel rule, which is good to 1/64th. Which is better?

pqe

Dial calipers

Long Pieces

Cut it just a wee bit to long and then use a sanding stick on it. Sand it, check it and sand some more and check until it is the right length.

Micro Mark also has a sanding tool that you can put the piece into and move a bar back and forth. It makes it easier to keep the ends square. I use a sanding stick and just keep a close eye on the edges. It isn't hard.

I did a small N scale store last winter and it had all of the trim pieces too short. Found some strip wood that was the same size and had to cut my own.

This won't be the only time this happens!!! Looks good so far.

Jack

Thanks for the tips

• Jack -- Aleene's is working well for me, and I appreciate the toothpick trick. I had been using the dental tool seen above, but it was not very satisfactory. I made a sanding stick and trimmed the window openings a bit.
• Alan-- Of course (D'oh). I have one of those within reach. It's funny how the mindset defines some tools for metal work and others for wood.
• Rich-- I had been putting off a micro mark order because I know I'll spend a lot. I used to go crazy with the Brookstone catalog back when they sold tools. But it's time. Squares, magnets, jigs-- just wait til the wife finds out.
• Peter--I think I have some bar aluminum in the garage. I know I have iron, but that's not particularly square. Don't have any lead though. I may weight them some other way.

Thanks again all, and more to come.

pqe

Lead

Stop by the nearest tire shop and ask them for some of their old tire weights.  A very cheap and usually free source of lead.

Dave

building structures

Square is good for building structures, and machinists squares are always useful.  One source: http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2742&category=

I have also found the micromark magnetic gluing jig very effective

http://www.micromark.com/magnetic-gluing-jig-10-1and4-inch-square,7038.html

It's about a ten inch metal tray with square edges and magnets.  It's also useful for small parts.

"the toothpick trick"

    I use toothpicks for wood glue and sewing pins for finer applications. CA glue soaks into tooth picks but will hold in a small drop on the tip of a pin. Holding the pin at a 45 degree downward angle and squeezing a bit of CA on the tip is the best way to load it, the glue drop can be seen and the amount judged by eye. ...DaveB

More comedy

Do you know what happens when the nozzle on an airbrush is a bit loose? First it gives a little gloop. Then a bigger one. Finally, all of the paint in the cup shoots up (sort of like the firecracker in the plumbing trick) and splatters all over the place, including the ceiling of your paint enclosure, the model, and of course, you.

One that was cleaned up, this is what the model looks like:

This is one coat of model master grey primer, then after drying (and cleaning off the results of the above mentioned disaster) two coats of artists acrylic diluted about 2:1. 

Issues:

• It's a bit rough. I did no sanding, because the instructions talked about distressing the wood further, but I'm thinking about a light sand and another coat. In the right light, there are some vice marks from the factory machinery.
• You can't see from this angle, but primer is still visible in some of the lines between boards.
• I need to paint the doors an ugly green. That will be a masking tape job, another skill that eludes me.

Comments, suggestions, brickbats?

pqe

"Comments, suggestions,

Looks fine to me , the paint matches the type of building very well.  Must be something going around in the air, I had to disassemble  my airbrush  last week to fix the spitting and sputtering.....DaveB 

Building wood structures

I've found that an Aliphatic resin glue works really well, the brand I use is made by Deluxe Materials. I've used it on three Mt Albert models I've built recently with great results. I also weather my woodwork before gluing and painting. I make my own weathering solution. Take half a bottle of vinegar, add a twist of steel wool and leave for 24 hours. Fill the bottle with plain water and paint on or for lots of strip wood, pour into a tray, dunk in the wood for a couple of minutes, pour off and save for re-use on another kit. The weathered effect becomes really apparent when the wood is dry. Multiple applications darken the wood more. I work on the ratio; weather it all once, one third twice and one tenth three times.You can see some of the models I've used this glue to build and the vinegar mix to weather at http://www.winkton.net/bearwood%20pages/ON30.htm

Very good article for reference

If you can get a hold of a copy, the August 1982 issue of Model Railroader has an excellent article by Bob Hayden about building one's first craftsman-style kit. Can't believe it's that old (or I"M that old!) but the info is timeless.  Send me a personal message and I'll be glad to scan and e-mal to you if you can't locate it.

Best,

Jeff

Micro Mark

Guys we are modelers and very creative. Yes there are some specialized tools that Micro Mark is great for, but other wise don't waste your money. First there is the internet do a search for the item in Google or what ever your fav search engine is. 9 times out of 10 I have found the same item or similar item for much less than Micro Mark has it. 2nd build it yourself. As far as that magnetic jig goes that they sell for 20 something dollars I built one for about 10.00. Remember back in the old days a modeler had to build their own jigs etc, Micro Mark did not exist. I watched my grandfather build many a tool / jig for a mmr special job. Good Luck and Happy modeling.

glues

For all my wood structures I use the pink flamingo glue from Northeastern.   The best darn glue for laser cut kits.   Holds fast, dries quick.   For places that require CA glue, I now use Rhino glue.   It doesn't harden in the bottle and works perfectly.   I've had an open bottle of Rhino on my workbench for a year (with their snap cap on) and it still flows when I use it.

I also use the magnetic clamps but I didn't buy them from MM, got them cheaper elsewhere.   My chopper is used for most of my wood cutting and as said, I cut it slightly long and sand it down to the final dimension.

Paints I use are mostly craft paints.   Either brushed on or thinned and airbrushed.   I use Wall Mart rattle can gray primer.   It doesn't have a lot of filler in it so you won't lose the details in your model.

Dave Mason

http://www.On30IMA.com

Lead weights

Visit your local tire shop (Big O has always been helpful).  They remove old tire weights and generally save them for someone that comes by and buys them but I've found they are willing to give you some weights if they know what you are using them for.

Weighted Squares

Thanks for all the great Details! Always informative.

Could you post a picture of the aluminum square tubing previously mentioned?  How did you heat the lead to fill the tube?

Crooked window openings

As mentioned, use sandpaper sticks to square up the openings.

If there will be a space showing, you could make some shutters for the sides, and an extra-thick windowsill for the bottom.  A few vines growing up the sides can hide a gap, too.  

One item not mentioned - use 1/8 or 1/4 square stripwood to brace the walls - it prevents warping.  

CA Applicator

In mid-2010 I stumbled upon this for applying CA (Super Glue, et al) and have often used it successfully:

http://www.shortlinemodelers.com/quick-tips/acc-ca-glue-applicator

(The picture above captured from the referenced web page)

To clean the tip when CA clogs the eye of the needle, use acetone.

Caution: Be careful with the acetone, it can damage some plastic surfaces.

You can get the acetone used for fingernail polish remover, but I recommend the type without the additives. The type without additives can be purchased from, among other places, CVS Pharmacy - it comes in a plain cylindrical plastic  bottle. Acetone can dry your skin, so avoid contact as much as possible.

I was going to buy one of

I was going to buy one of those magnetic things to keep stuff square but I didn't like the price. Here's my solution to that problem.

I take a lot of pictures while I'm building stuff and I have a couple slide shows on YouTube. Maybe you can get some ideas.

http://public.fotki.com/DaveInTheHat/davetown/

http://www.youtube.com/user/daveinthehat/videos